Rabbit Information
- Rabbits can leave their mothers from about 6-8 weeks of age, by which time they should be fully weaned.
- They live from 6-10 years, although some rabbits can live even longer than this.
- The male is called a buck, and the female a doe. The male has a round genital opening, containing the penis, whereas the female has a V-shaped slit.
- Sexual maturity occurs at 4-5 months of age, and at this stage they can be neutered.
- Oestrus in the doe can last for a long time because she will only ovulate following mating, although sometimes this may occur following mounting by other does.
- The gestation period is approximately 32 days, and their litter size averages about 6-7.
Whether you have just acquired a new rabbit for the first time, or have kept rabbits for years, hopefully you will find the information on these pages useful!
The most important information for rabbit owners is about feeding. The majority of problems that we encounter in rabbits are due to improper diet, so if nothing else please read this page!
Below is more general information about Housing, Socialising and Neutering your rabbit.
We also have information pages about Vaccinating Your Rabbit and Encephalitozoon cuniculi, a common protozoal parasite infection in rabbits.
Housing:
When taking on a rabbit it is important to consider their natural behaviour patterns and needs. Rabbits are social animals who like to jump and burrow, so they require plenty of space. Ideally they should be kept with a companion, preferably another rabbit, and it is important to allow them to exercise for several hours a day, whether kept indoors or outdoors.
Outdoor Rabbits: Two or more rabbits can live in a permanent enclosure, with suitable shelter and the opportunity to exercise at will. This is the ideal situation for them to display their normal behaviour patterns. Alternatively, they can be kept in a hutch at night but be allowed access to the garden or a run for several hours each day. A hutch can never be too big, but it should be at least 5' x 2' x 2' (per rabbit). A confined sleeping area should be provided to protect rabbits from the elements, and the hutch should be in a sheltered position out of the wind and direct sunlight. It should be raised off the ground to prevent damp and to deter vermin. The roof should be waterproof, sloping and have an overhang to allow water to run off.
Rather than allowing free-run of the garden an exercise run may be preferred. This, again, should be as large as possible, and may be portable so it can be moved around the garden, or permanent with the hutch incorporated into the enclosure. A customised garden shed with access to a permanent outdoor run via a catflap makes an ideal home for a rabbit. As rabbits like to burrow, a permanent run should have the wire mesh sunk into the ground at least 15'' around the edges to stop them burrowing out. The runs should include somewhere to hide - either a wooden box or a length of pipe - and should be partly covered to provide shade and protection from the rain.
Needless to say, any run or hutch should be secure against predators - cats, dogs, foxes or birds of prey.
Indoor Rabbits: Rabbits are naturally very clean, and in the wild they have toilet areas. This means they can be easily litter trained, so can live indoors with us just like a cat. Initially it is best to keep the rabbit in an indoor cage with a litter tray and then gradually build up their freedom over time. Provided the rabbit gets out for several hours a day it is reasonable to keep them caged when unsupervised. Over time it is quite possible to turn them into 'free-range' house rabbits.
The biggest problem with an indoor rabbit is that they like to chew. 'Bunny-proofing' the home is essential to protect both your possessions and the rabbit! Cables should be covered with plastic piping, houseplants lifted beyond reach, skirting boards and furniture legs protected with plastic, and books and clothing not left on the floor.
Stimulation: Whether kept indoors or outside, providing plenty of stimulation to keep rabbits occupied is essential. As rabbits are social animals, providing them with a companion or giving them plenty of human contact is important. The environment can also be enriched with tunnels, cardboard boxes, baskets etc, and a planter filled with earth to dig in. Wild rabbits spend several hours a day foraging for food, so hiding tasty bits of food and scattering their concentrate diet around the cage encourages this type of behaviour. Access to hay at all times is essential, both for their diet and also as something for them to play with.
Keeping More Than One Rabbit:
Rabbits are social animals, and can live happily together provided consideration is given to their compatibility. When introducing adult rabbits they should be given time to get used to each other before having direct physical contact, as serious fighting may occur. This is best done by putting them into individual pens separated only by a wire mesh for a few weeks to allow them to get used to each other. They can then be put together (under supervision!), ideally in a new and different environment to reduce any territorial behaviour between them. After some initial chasing around they usually settle and can go back into their permanent home. Rabbits from the same litter can usually be kept together with no problems, although sometimes fighting will start once they reach sexual maturity.
To prevent rabbits fighting, or if fighting starts between litter-mates, then neutering is the best option to prevent this. Of course, if a male rabbit is to be kept with one or more females, then he should also be neutered to prevent an unwanted population explosion! It is possible to keep rabbits with guinea pigs as companions, but care should be taken as rabbits can harm guinea pigs quite easily if they don't get on.
Neutering:
Rabbits are social animals and naturally live in colonies. Neutering means that more than two or more rabbits can be kept together with no risks of breeding, and a drastically reduced incidence of fighting.
After reaching puberty at 4-6 months of age, both males and females can become quite aggressive and territorial. They may fight and scratch each other, and even their owners! In addition, older female rabbits are at risk from uterine cancer and uterine infections. Neutering can be done from 4-6 months of age in both sexes. It is important to note that male rabbits may still be fertile up to 6 weeks after castration, so they should not be put straight back in with any females.
